JULY / AUGUST 2006
Not quite European, yet not North American, Iceland is one thing above all: unique. Its volcanic origins, impeccably preserved language, genetically homogenous population and incomparable natural beauty make Iceland insular--- both literally and figuratively. The island’s unique formation began this country’s path towards exceptionality. Iceland is precariously situated in the middle of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American tectonic plate meets that of Europe, making Iceland a prime location for the type of volcanoes that created the island centuries ago. In fact, the country currently counts twenty active volcanoes. This, along with the presence of glaciers and beautiful scenery in its interior has led some to call Iceland the land of fire and ice. That said, Iceland is by no means an intemperate land; many outsiders confuse it with its neighbor Greenland, which does not benefit from the Gulf Stream as does Iceland, and therefore does have a harsh and icy climate. Summer visitors to Reykjavik, the capital, can expect temperatures in the mid-50’s Fahrenheit, and nearly 24 hours of daylight near the summer solstice, as the island is located less than 200 miles from the Arctic Circle. In winter of course the opposite remains true, and the population lives in almost day-long darkness for several months a year. With cheap fares from North America and Europe, Iceland is increasingly becoming a popular place for visitors, and those seeking adventure tourism in particular. Camping, hiking, guided caving, horseback riding and glacier trekking are all options for tourists, albeit at a price. The value-added tax (VAT) in Iceland currently stands at a whopping 24.5% for most goods and services, which helps sustain one of the most highly-developed welfare states in Europe, in line with the models of its Scandinavian neighbors. Despite this fact, Reykjavik has also become a popular hot spot for British ‘hen’ and ‘stag’ parties (known to Americans as bachelorette and bachelor parties), as the country’s capital has developed a reputation as a party city, despite its meager population. Iceland itself only counts approximately 300,000 citizens, about two-thirds of whom live in Reykjavik and its immediate suburbs. Given this modest population, virtually all its citizens are multilingual. Icelandic is said to be the Scandinavian language most closely related to original Norse, and often proves exceedingly difficult for non-natives to learn. However, Icelanders learn both English and Danish from elementary school onwards, and many also go on to learn another language in secondary school, such as Norwegian or German. In addition to the outdoor adventures available in Iceland are several historic places of interest. Hofdi House lies in the center of downtown Reykjavik, and is best known as the site of a visit by Sir Winston Churchill in 1941, and also as the meeting place of a failed 1986 disarmament summit between American President Ronald Regan and Mikhail Gorbachev during the height of the Cold War. The house is now owned and used by the Icelandic government for receptions and official use. Once considered a hot spot for Cold War monitoring between the US and Russia, the decision was recently made in March, 2006 for the Americans to pull out of Keflavik Naval Air Base in southwest Iceland. The base had been an economic and security resource for this country that has no Army, Navy or Air Force. American protection and NATO membership are key to the maintenance of Iceland’s peaceful, isolated existence. In fact, Iceland was a founding member of NATO in 1949, with the United States being the first country to recognize Icelandic self-determination as a republic, separate from Denmark, in 1944. Also setting Iceland apart is its fresh and unique cuisine. The fishing industry is the lifeblood of the Icelandic economy, accounting for a minority of the labor force, but over 60 % of the nation’s gross domestic product. Given that the vast majority of the country is powered by either geothermal or hydroelectric power, the fisheries are known to be some of the most unpolluted in the world. In addition to seafood, other Icelandic delicacies include puffin, the waddling land-bound bird often mistaken for a penguin, and also putrefied shark, called Hákarl. The meat is known to have toxic levels of ammonia when caught and is therefore buried in the earth for months until it rots, and is then cooked and served. Much more approachable to outsiders however is skyr, an Icelandic dessert much like yogurt, which can be found in a variety of fruit flavors. Finally, the biggest draw for many tourists is the famed Blue Lagoon, an outdoor geothermal spa which channels hot water from underground into a huge steaming hot tub. The silica mud that forms on the bottom of the lagoon is said to have restorative and cleansing properties, and guests at the spa can be found rubbing it on their faces like a clay mask. Not a bad way to end a vacation spent hiking and partying into the wee hours of daylight!
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